28 February 2008

This has already been such an amazing experience. And I'm really lucky to have some great Americans to share it with. We've been walking to and from the university most days lately (about a 45 minute walk), and that's been really good debriefing time to just be able to revamp and blow off some steam. Rita accompanied me to the university today just because she needed to take a walk and get out of the house for a bit. She's also a sociology major... so we can talk about things coming from the same perspective. A lot of the experiences that we've all had have been in relation to money, race, and privilege. I can't step outside of my house without being followed and asked for money. "Tubaab" generally refers to foreigners, more specifically white foreigners. Tubaabs are seen as extremely wealthy and extremely ignorant. And for good reason, too, I'm sure. By US standards, I wouldn't consider myself extremely wealthy, but here I definitely am. After Rita had turned around, there were a few little girls who ran a good 50ft to the road yelling, "Tubaab! Tubaab! Donne-moi de l'argent! Tubaab!" Give me money!

This whole experience has given me a new perspective on race relations in America. Yes, I know that this isn't America, and yes I know that being white in Africa is very different from being a person of color in America, but there are a few fundamental things that are interesting to consider and merit some discussion. For one, when I'm walking down the sidewalk at the university, I feel an instant connection with any other white person I see. Doesn't even matter if they're American. There is an instant understanding of what it means to be white in Senegal -- an unspoken commonality. When I'm walking down the road, I am first and foremost a white person. I have no name, I have no identity other than my skin color. As hard as these experiences have been, I'm more excited than anything about it because hopefully I'll be able to bring these experiences back to America and have a greater connection with the kids that I work with or with some of the students I'm with at Hamline.

My favorite moments of the day are when I'm with my host sisters and we're just goofing around. The other day, I was playing MASH with them. We've had modeling shows. They've put me in traditional Muslim scarves. We have contests making weird faces and noises. We have intelligent conversation as well. They're great. I've also learned, though, that my host mother is apparently very much disliked in my village because she's really rude to everyone and doesn't treat her kids very well. As much as that's hard to deal with, I feel really validated that it's not just me and the kids who seem to think that way. So, that was exciting news.

What else. Hmm. The other day when I was walking home, there was this baaa-ing. Normal because there are tons(!) of stray goats around. But this baby goat had it's head stuck in a tin can. (The most pitiful and most adorable thing I've ever seen.) I helped it to get its head out and then when it looked up at me to see who it was that had helped him, he saw it was a human and quickly scampered the other way. :D Pretty cute.

Oh, one night I was saying that I'd rather adopt kids than have my own, and they were astounded. They seem to think that's just wrong. You have your own children. No matter that there are many children who don't have homes or anything to eat or go without love their whole lives. And we've been told old stories about how fathers are never truly respected by the children who aren't truly their children. And kids who aren't really children are treated differently. There is a lot of pride in having your own children.

Another thing: they cook with soooo much oil! It's incredibly that they haven't all died of clogged arteries yet! Seriously! On Sundays, my family makes eggs. On the bottom of the frying pan, there is at least 3/4" of oil on the bottom! Soooo unnecessary! Sometimes in the morning, I wake up to the smell of boiling oil. And it makes me die a little inside. They don't seem to think it's unhealthy at all. And there also seems to be this general feeling of "if you don't do it how it's done here, it's inherently wrong." For me, that sentiment is actually kind of amusing. When I say (politely) that we don't cook with that much oil when asked... they respond, "Well, this is the better way of doing it." Very interesting take on my way of the highway. Which doesn't necessarily jive with the way that I was taught: we can do this the easy way or the Tofte way. :D

Well, I suppose I should get back to help with dinner. This basically consists of me getting water or putting things in the cupboard when everyone is finished... because there are already 4 women working on it... and too many hands doesn't make light work. I'm merely there for entertainment purposes.

I love Senegal even though sometimes things are a bit overwhelming. I'm already thinking about how I'm going to structure my research when I'm here... and think that things will be a bit easier once school gets rolling... and then I'll be able to talk to people in my sociology classes. Woo! Research!

Keep the comments and emails coming. I love hearing from you even if I don't respond! Hope everyone is healthy and happy. Lord knows I am! :D

2 comments:

Anonymous said...

THE TOFTE WAY!
i just want you to know that this page is my homepage. haha. just so i can keep updated! but it sounds amazing. i'm thinking more about studying in New Zealand or somewhere besides Germany. should be exciting. :)

Stacy D said...

Woo research!

Your race relations section to your post is very interesting to hear!

I miss you...